How to get rid of mold

Last updated: 2026-07-06 · Reviewed by the DisasterStatus editorial team

Getting rid of mold is really two jobs: removing the growth and fixing the moisture that caused it. Skip the second and the mold comes back, no matter how well you clean. For a small patch on a hard surface, this is a reasonable do-it-yourself project. For anything larger — or anything growing into your walls — it's a job for a pro. Here's how to tell the difference, and exactly how to do it safely.

Short answer: if the moldy patch is smaller than about 10 square feet on a hard, non-porous surface, put on an N95 respirator, gloves, and non-vented goggles, scrub the mold off with detergent and water, and dry the area completely; porous materials like moldy drywall, carpet, and ceiling tile usually can't be cleaned and should be discarded (EPA). Then fix the leak or humidity problem that fed it — otherwise the mold comes back. Anything bigger, anything in the HVAC system, or anything following a flood belongs with a professional.

First, decide: DIY or call a pro?

The US EPA's rule of thumb is size: if the moldy area is under about 10 square feet (roughly a 3-by-3-foot patch) on a hard, non-porous surface, most homeowners can handle it. Lean toward a professional when:

• The area is larger than ~10 sq ft, or mold is in more than one room
• Mold is on or behind porous materials — drywall, insulation, carpet, ceiling tile
• It's inside the HVAC system or ductwork — don't run a system you suspect is contaminated, or it can spread mold through the building (EPA)
• It followed a flood or sewage backup, or any contaminated water
• Anyone in the home has asthma, allergies, chronic lung disease, or a weakened immune system — the CDC says those individuals should not take part in mold cleanup (CDC)
• The mold keeps returning, or you smell it but can't find it

If any of those apply, skip ahead to when to call a professional.

What you'll need

• An N95 respirator (not a basic dust mask), rubber or nitrile gloves, and goggles without ventilation holes — the minimum protective gear for small mold jobs (EPA)
• Detergent or dish soap and water; a stiff scrub brush
• Plastic sheeting and bags for debris; a fan or dehumidifier for drying

How to remove mold yourself, step by step

1. Fix the moisture source first. Find and stop the water feeding the mold — a leak, condensation, flooding, or high humidity. Cleaning mold without fixing the moisture only delays its return.
2. Protect yourself. Wear at least an N95 respirator, rubber or nitrile gloves, and goggles without vents. If you have asthma, allergies, or a weakened immune system, do not do the work yourself.
3. Seal off and ventilate the area. Close doors to other rooms and, if practical, open a window or run a fan to the outside. Avoid blowing spores through the rest of the house while you work.
4. Clean hard, non-porous surfaces. Scrub mold off hard surfaces — tile, glass, sealed wood, metal — with detergent and water. The EPA does not consider bleach necessary for this; physical removal plus drying is what matters.
5. Remove porous materials that can’t be cleaned. Moldy drywall, carpet, carpet padding, ceiling tiles, and insulation usually can’t be cleaned and should be bagged and discarded. Surface cleaning won’t reach growth rooted inside them.
6. Dry everything completely. Dry the cleaned area fully within 24–48 hours, using fans and a dehumidifier if needed. Mold cannot regrow on a surface that stays dry.
7. Verify and prevent recurrence. Keep indoor humidity between 30–50%, fix ventilation, and check the spot over the next few weeks. If mold returns, the moisture problem isn’t solved — reassess or call a pro.

Does bleach kill mold?

It's the first thing most people reach for, but bleach is not the hero it's made out to be. The EPA does not recommend chemicals or biocides such as chlorine bleach as a routine part of mold cleanup. On hard, non-porous surfaces it can remove staining, but it can't penetrate porous materials like drywall and wood, so it leaves the actual roots behind — and the water it carries can even feed regrowth if the surface isn't dried afterward. For most jobs, detergent, water, and thorough drying do the job. The growth coming out and the surface staying dry matter far more than what you spray on it. And never mix bleach with ammonia or any other cleaner — the combination produces dangerous, toxic fumes (CDC).

Will the mold come back?

Only if the moisture does. Materials that are dried within 24–48 hours of getting wet will in most cases not grow mold, and mold can't grow on a surface that stays dry — so the durable fix is environmental: repair the leak, improve ventilation, and keep indoor humidity below 60%, ideally between 30–50% (EPA). If mold returns to the same spot after a proper cleaning, that's your sign the water source was never fully resolved — or that growth is rooted in a material that needs to be removed, not scrubbed. For the full moisture-control playbook, see how to prevent mold. For more on spotting hidden moisture problems, see signs of mold in your house, and on telling real mold from harmless look-alikes, mold vs. mildew. Working on drywall or tile specifically? See how to remove mold from walls.

When to call a professional

Bring in a remediation pro for anything beyond a small surface patch — large areas, porous or structural materials, HVAC involvement, post-flood or sewage situations, recurring growth, or health concerns in the household. A professional will contain the area to stop spread, remove affected materials safely, treat and dry the space, and fix the moisture source so it doesn't return. It's worth knowing the price range first — see mold removal cost — and then connect with a vetted local mold remediation pro to get matched.